Ask a master mechanic who works at lube stop anything

Not op here but aren’t they literally Near the ignition chamber? I know nothing about diesel so I’m probably far off.

Thanks bro, will do

Overpaid by $550 dollars

Whats your opinion on the newer Ford F150's with the 10 speed and the coyote?

Not OP, assuming this was not a serpentine belt and they had to rotate the motor by hand to find tdc on #1 to place a new belt? That's when they always seem to find that leaking front/rear main seal, ain't it?

The timing belt broke is what shop said

Oh well it be like that

Ford is shit

Why can an end-of-life car battery be harmful to the alternator?

It was more a rhetorical question about integrity. I fully expect poor people to lie, but wanted to ask anyway.

It was more an accusation than a question.

No you're correct, but I dont have a Yaris nor does a Yaris have a glow plug, its a combustion vs compression engine. I was just fucking with the Master Lube Mechanic, who seems to have evaporated from his thread. Lol must have "slipped" away from him- because he lubes shit all day for a living and calls himself a Master Mechanic

Yes
Unequivocally yes.
CCA stand for cold cranking amps which mean under that coldest rated conditions for the battery, it will produce a maximum of roughly 550 or 450 or whatever the batteries CCA output is rated at. Your cars electrical system is going to require a certain CCA output or it will fail to start in cold weather or in sub optimal conditions.

>glow plug
>Yaris

Back to /o/ a with you

Ye then they must have had to pull the head cover to find #1 tdc to place a new one. Probably a sideways engine too which means they had to pull 3 motor mounts or call in the guy with the teeny tiny Vietnamese hands that can get in there to do it. Sorry that happened to you user

Are you really this retarded?

Not so retarded as to lube shit all day larping as a Master Mechanic lol

What would be a better motor for my skyline? A gallo 12 or a gallo 24?

I'm assuming they did the entire kit (including water pump) then the price is normal if quality parts were used

Depends on what the OE spec is for recommended CCAs. Call any parts store and ask what the spec is for your car

If the timing belt broke on a 99 Camry, why wouldn’t the piston(s) have slapped the valve(s) and destroyed the engine? Those are typically interference engines. When a timing belt breaks that isn’t known to happen. Just a curious question if they ever told you about it

Rb20det

Ls

Ls2

1jz / 2jz
Vr4
2/3 rotor
Anything but that

How much for a lube job while I wait?

Yeah you're that retarded. You fell for the bait. And if you didn't then it's worse considering how you responded. Maybe not retarded, but definitely autistic.

I have an 06 toyota tacoma at around 220k miles. I bought it around 200k and I can do little things like oil or breaks.
Is there anything in particular I should get done to it? Transmission flushed? New spark plugs? I don't know when the previous owner did any of these things or how well he kept it.

Replace belts, bleed brakes*, spark plugs, timing belt adjustment, oil filter, all fluids. Basically anything that can be replaced at a low cost, do it.

master mechanic at lube stop is like saying head chef at taco bell. You are a super faggot

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holy fuck
imagine being this fucking retarded

Hello user, I am about to change out spark plugs and spark plug wires myself on ford mustang v6 4.0L. Do I need to buy these bullshit lubes and stuff guides recommends or can I just screw those new shits in there after getting old ones out?

How familiar are you with 99-04 Mustang engines?

Engine timing is the answer. Once the belt breaks you lose the intake/compression/power/exhaust rhythm of the valves and pistons working together and the engine stops firing. The valves are retained and controlled in their travel in the combustion chamber by springs and some type of rocker arm/tappet/rack/cam shaft lobe system that simply stops turning once that drive belt is gone. You can still squish a valve with a piston, or shoot one into the block but not usually from losing a timing belt. Usually.

0W-16

They did

I got lucky I guess

Shut up, faggot.

I could use a nice lube son, bring lots of rags so you can wipe up the slippery mess I leave. After that I'm gonna need you to go ahead and clean the bathrooms and bag up the dirty uniforms for the guy who picks them up for cleaning. Thanks oil wiper

Coolant light turns on after a few miles. Used to turn on and then turn off again after a few minutes, but now constantly stays on. Obviously there's enough coolant in the tank, checked twice. How to fix?

And your alternative brand is....?

interesting fact about the camry's there was a year cutoff (cant remember the exact year) but during those years the engines were either interference or non-interference meaning you could drive the nuts off of it without fear of the timing belt breaking and bending all of your valves, depending on what year you have.

99 Camry 4 cylinder is non-interference.

depends entirely if they have been done before and replaced with regular plugs or not.

if it has the original 2 piece spark plugs i would drive that shit to a mechanic and let them take care of it. Most shops if it has the original plugs charge 1hr per plug, and trust me its worth every penny, because the chances are that those damn plugs are going to break off inside of the god damn heads and require them to drill them out, or even better remove the heads to get them out.

Thx dude, I have some liquid wrench I wil try to get into the old ones to get them out. I have 100k miles I remember changing out last pair around 50-60k. So not the original plugs so hopefully not the nightmare you envision if it was original plugs.

Lube the threads on the new plugs, that shit gets hot af and if the plug decides to be stuck from no lube on the threads you're likely going to snap the porcelain and either be forced to try and easy out the nub or more likely have to pull the entire head to clear the trash out of the cylinder bore.

Also a good idea to double check the gap in the plugs prior to installing. They're probably pre gapped but shit jostles around during shipping, store clerks sometimes have shit days and drop/fling shit about in the back etc. Pre gapped specs can change when that happens and it takes like 2 entire seconds to gap a plug. Finally, change one plug and wire at a time, it's easy af to get distracted or lose your place and fuck the firing order all to shit. On a 6 it's 1-5-3-6-2-4 usually but there's a bit of hand rotation with a socket and breaker bar on the crank

>a master mechanic who works at lube stop
what poor life choices did you make that led to you wasting your talents?

What steps should I go through to diagnose an oil leak on a motorcycle? Its a 2017 yamaha xt250 with barely over 750 miles if it helps

Not gmc either

K20 swap that bitch and make it fwd

i have clutch/tranny issues
manual
car goes into gear, sometimes grinds in 4th and 3rd if i'm hammering it. known syncro issue, could be that.

then, recently my start motor has been grinding randomly when trying to start the car. starter motor teeth are fine. flywheel teeth? maybe but it stopped for about 2 months and then randomly came back.

pretty sure my rear main seal is leaking. not sure if that might lube the flywheel and affect starter? no idea

when i hit boost in 3rd+ gear the clutch starts slipping. sometimes it holds, sometimes it doesn't. i thought i was going to have to buy a new clutch but it's just been doing that for about 4 months now with seemingly no further degradation of the clutch.

lastly, when i put the clutch in sometimes i hear grinding if i hold it too long, as if the clutch isn't fully disengaged, or the throwout bearing is fucked or something.

i don't know if these are related or completely different issues but that area of my car is a fuckfest at the moment that i can't afford to fix for another few weeks.

Lubing new plugs affects the applied torque and can lead to over torqueing.

Clutch dust mixed with oil can gum up starters.

I own a 1998 GMC K1500. I replaced the serpentine belt last year but recently it's been squealing when I start my truck up like its slipping until I get to about 4000 rpms. I've checked it and it doesn't look like it's slipping, whats the problem?

does that make it slip the flywheel and grind instead of starting properly?

buy yourself a can of belt grip and spray the shit out of it

Squish your water hoses on top and bottom of the radiator after starting it and letting it warm up for a minute. If one of the hoses is colder than the other it could indicate a failing thermostat. Also, check the water pump, right where the shaft comes out, on the bottom of the pump housing is what's called a weep hole and it should be dry, a wet one indiactea a failing water pump and it will squeal like a wet belt. You could also possibly benefit from flushing and freshly treating the fluid, it does have a working life and should be changed occasionally. It could also be a dirty/gummy sensor. Get yourself a Haynes or a Chilton manual, they have pretty decent trouble shooting sections, Haynes in my opinion has better pics. Good luck user

Ye I believe they used an actual timing chain that was inside the block. A buddies sister had one of those in the 80's and she was brutal at with it and it still sold for a decent price specifically because of that.

driver side wheel bearing is going out, is it something i can change myself, its one of the hub/bearing combos so i wont be needed to press the bearings in with any special tools

You'd likely have to pop the head to get the drill trash and chunks that always end up falling into the plug hole anyhow. I've gotten lucky in whapping the exposed broken part with a flathead to make a slot, adding a shit ton of marvel mystery oil and a little heat to back it out with a gigantic screwdriver. Thank Christ only 1 plug had snapped and every little speck was accounted for and I didn't need to pull the head. I've always thought if you have good compression you might be able to get away with flushing the cylinder with clean oil using one of those little pumps you work with a drill motor but fortunately I've not had an opportunity to try that lol

is it a belt or a chain? i feel like a broken timing chain might be more work to fix than a belt

Where do you work?

If you don't know any better yeah, but trust me to want at least a little antiseize on the first few lands of thread. Tighten to just a cunthair tighter than snug and you'll be fine, you have to remember the heat down there and the expansion/contraction action can make the plug threads fall deeply in love with the head threads if you leave that shit dry.

Waterpump

OMG brother you have no idea. I'd rather change a dozen broken belts than 1 broken chain, its a pain in the pain in the ass. Twice the pain

Have you heard or seen much about the oil dilution problem with Hondas? Allegedly the engine in recent years of the Civic, Accord and CR-V gets excessive ammounts of gas in the oil over time. Have you ever smelled gas in Honda oil? How much of a problem do you think it is, would you avoid owning these cars?

youtube.com/watch?v=fVdKNRgzGT8