Ask a car salesman anything

I'm looking at a car that is going to be refreshed next model year (BMW 4-series). Dealer is telling me that I can get crazy good deals if I buy the "last of the old 4-series" before the new model comes out.

I agree that I can get a good deal - no one wants an outdated beamer. How good of a deal can I get?

They're actually sometimes lighter than regular transmissions. Automotive transmissions have come a long way in the last 10 years where they're becoming as reliable (if not more) as manual transmissions.

Doesn't hurt the transmission on newer vehicles.

how much is a good month and an okay month for you?

have you had any kinky offers from customers for a better price or assistance?

Actually, yes. I'm not OP, but when properly downshifting (i.e., through use of paddle shifters), you will not cause a significant amount of stress on your system to stop. All of the stopping power comes from the vacuum in the engine block.

i find it hard to believe autos could ever be as light or lighter than manuals that are engineered to the same degree
you literally need everything a manual has plus more to make an auto so how could it ever weigh less than a manual?

In the north or south?
What's your pay plan?
How many units did you finish w last month?
Why aren't you in f & i?
Why aren't you doing follow up?

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Why does Nissan suck so bad?

If you're looking to purchase a previous model year BMW as "new", generally you can get a good deal, but I would compare the car's value and price over other BMW dealers and tell them you're cross shopping. They'll most of the time try to beat out their competitors. If they don't and kick you out, then you know those are their best numbers.

I usually sell 25-30 cars a month but on May I only sold 19 which really pissed me off (I was 1 car away from a bonus). Between that, gross on the cars I sell, and money that Nissan gives me for selling new cars, I usually make $18-20k a month before taxes.

I've received that once, but it was from a man. He offered me a "massage" if I could cover his $500 down payment. I kicked him out the store.

North. %25 front %5 back. last month i was at 26 cars. I'm not in F&I because I have a lot better hours (to spend with my daughters) as a salesman and I can make the same money.

Not Op but I actually had a lady tell me she would suck my dick to get her in a car... I declined since she looked like Whoopi Goldberg’s discarded lovechild

you're full of shit

What do you do for a living?

Older generation weren't that great, but their new lineup is pretty good. I'm about to buy a Maxima for myself in several months.

Thank you! Most of my customers start out that way.

Yes, but how good? The 2019 and 2020 4-series will look totally different. Salesman knows I have a family and is trying to get me into a gran coupe. my thought is to wait until the 2020 hits the floor, and then I can get the 2019 gran coupe (with zero miles) for 75% of sticker price.

Am I unreasonable?

What's the best strategy for negotiation on a better price. I have excellent credit.

hey boss,
fellow salesman here
I work for the ASPCA selling memberships at malls and it isnt all that I thought it was going to be.
Is selling cars any easier or more fun?

Jaguar salesman here. Fucking love this job. Never thought I would.

you can have an auto with a 'twin-clutch' which is an automated manual. You can have tiptronic (paddles). Then there's full auto which doesn't have the features that a twin clutch has (like being able to put an auto gear stick into + and -) so it's fully automated. Then manual.

It all depends on your budget. Most BMW stores are full of arrogant assholes who won't budge an inch of dropping their price, but if you really want the new 4-series then go for it and make the dealers fight with each other. E-mail or text is the best way to handle this.

I'd go to a family owned manufacturer store. I'd straight up be honest with them. Tell them you've been looking online and want a certain car you've seen. (You will find best prices online and even then you can bring it down a little). Then when they show you the first "pencil" (a pencil is a paper that shows your payment, price of car, APR, etc) ask for a ridiculous discount that you know won't happen. If the salesman is smart then he'll try to stick to his original price but most of them won't. Just keep at it. You don't have to buy on the first day but a salesman will try his hardest to make you. Try to stick with one dealer and salesman but call other dealers and ask them if they can offer a better car then bring that price to the original dealer. Its scummy and I hate people like that but its the best way to score a good deal.

Selling cars is a way different animal. Its a lot of hours and dealing with a bunch of flakes but once you get the hang of it, it becomes almost orgasmic when a customer signs paperwork agreeing to buy a car.

Hell yea!! I had an F-Type for a couple of years.

Eh I don’t buy that you make that much your full of shit Especially selling new Cars...and doubt you were a sales manager and only been in the biz 7 years at a high volume store...I would believe a Business manager but not a store manager

GM mechanic here. I'm constantly amazed at how my company can consistently find the lowest bidder for all of their parts and to write the vehicle's software.

edit, a clutchless manual would probably be a better term for the first one

doesnt really explain

Nice! Like it? Every F-Type I've sold they've absolutely loved it.

I'm driving the XJR575 with an F-Type SVR to match right now.

Apr on a first pencil? Not gunna happen lol your drunk

>s are full of arrogant assholes who won't budge an inch of dropping their price, but if you really want the new 4-series then go for it and make the dealers fight with each other. E-mail or text is the best way to handle this.

I do not want the new one. I want the old one at a severe discount.

Ford salesman checking in

yeah, i just read up on manumatic transmissions...still seems like its putting unnecessary stress the engines internal components, but the trade off being control and efficiency.

I was never a store manager. I was a sales manager at a store with 4 of us. I transferred to a smaller Nissan store that has 2 sales managers. Lower traffic but after 7 years with enough advertising, repeat business, and foot traffic I can sell a good amount of cars. I live in a Middle to lower high class area. People here generally don't fight too much with you on price.

I had an F-type R. I wanted an SVR but didn't want to spend that much cash with such a severe depreciation. It was such a great driving car but maintenance drove me insane so I traded it for an Armada.

Lots of stores still do it (mostly 1 price stores).

Then make them fight for your business.

Hows the foot traffic? Every ford salesman I know says the foot traffic is stupid low.

"all the stress"

Just imagine flooring it from a stop. How much stress is that putting on the drivetrain?

Then imagine staying in gear and engine braking down a hill. Flooring it from a stop is clearly more stress on the drivetrain. I'd bet even normal acceleration is more stress.

can you really spot a sucker right away? how often do you sell to people who don't know shit and overpay compared to people who actually do their research and end up getting a good deal?

Go at the end of the month...arrange financing before hind if they can bet your banks rate Great if not tell them to fuck off Oh and if you you do want to trade don’t tell them you want to trade your car till after you negotiate The car price lol will get your salesman cussed out by the manager but you will get a more accurate number on what they are actually giving you on your car

Right on. Yeah. both my cars tanked in value. But I don't really care. Not why i bought them.

My SVR has been bulletproof so far. Nothing outside of standard vehicle maintenance. Sorry to hear yours was such a nightmare. F-Types are the best besides the F-Pace as far as reliability (that I've seen)

Ask a mechanic.
It's just an automatic that you can determine which gear it has engaged. Depending on the build of the transmission, it chooses which of the planetary gears is engaged.

Unless it's a high end car that uses electric solenoids to disengage the clutch, change gears, then re-engage like on Astons and some BMWs.

Td;LR, unless it's high end, if it doesn't have a clutch pedal it's automatic and you can just choose which gear like selecting 1 or 2 on the column shift.

I mostly buy 1-2 year old luxury European cars for cash on the private market, drive them for 2 or 3 years, then sell them privately while they still have a little warranty on them.

A couple of times over the years my wife has asked asked for a new vehicle she really liked. My strategy is to wait until December 28 or so, visit 3 or 4 stealerships, have her pick one that she likes that's still unsold on each of the lots, then grind the balls off all the salesmen and their managers for 2 days for the best OTD price I can get (cash, no trade).

Anything else I should do? Should I be telling each of them I'm shopping their offers all over town, or pretend like theirs is the only one she likes? When I'm negotiating with one of them, and they ask me what their competitors are offering, do I tell the truth, lowball, or tell them none of your business?

Also, I've always refused the extended warranties and all the aftermarket doodads they want to sell me. I figure I'll be selling the vehicle at 4 or 5 years so why buy the extra yers. Is an extended warranty ever worth it for anyone or is it always a ripoff?

Game over thing's going to be 'it', going to do a massive schoolshooting discord.com\uzAtczX
aTBd

Game over thing's going to be 'it', going to do a massive schoolshooting discord.com\uzAtczX
DDht

Eh I’m till not going to believe you on how much you make solely on the fact that 99% of salesmen bullshit about how much they make lol I’ve done sales in many dealerships in states all over the country and yea 30 in a month is possible in medium to smaller marker tho I rarely seen it..so if you are pushing out over 30 in a smaller market congrats

Everyone is different. My biggest "suckers" are my repeat customers. I don't give them the best price but I don't make them overpay a lot. I knew a salesman that made $7k gross on his own mother. Maybe family are the biggest suckers? I have a rule to not sell to close friends or family. In terms of my customer base, most are educated and do a lot of research. Generally really good credit people.

This is good information but I don't recommend for you to trade in your car unless you're still financing it. If you are, tell them you're trading your car at the beginning and make sure you know what your car's KBB value is. If they start showing you all the scratches and dents on the car, tell them you don't really care and thats what you want for the vehicle. Most dealerships will cave.

I'm considering getting a used 17 or 18 Nissan GTR but so far the pricing has been shit on them. We'll see what happens!

Buying cash is always king and is the best deal you can possibly get for a vehicle, but most people choose finance. You can do end of the year shopping but I'd actually wait until late January or early February. The dealer will still have some new inventory left most of the time. I'd check online. And funny enough, honesty is best policy with a dealership. When you're being honest with them, they'll know how to sell you a car. A dealer will almost always be willing to lose money if they that means they move a new unit out. In terms of extended warranties, find out which one fits best for you. Electrics on new cars can be a nightmare to fix. Just depends on how much disposable income you have. Also warranties are where a dealership makes the most amount of money. Remember that you can usually negotiate the price of a warranty if you need it.

Before I bought my SVR I had an Alpha 9 Package '10 GTR. Thing was STUPID fast(needless to say). Just happened to have the SVR come through on trade. Same color as the XJR. Had been sorta on the lookout for a new weekend car anyways since I didn't love the way the GTR drove. But I knew I loved the way the F-Types drive. So I had to do it.

>You can do end of the year shopping but I'd actually wait until late January or early February.

So the end-of-year/end-of-month bonus chasing isn't really a thing?

Also, are the car buying sites that show you the "real" invoice price accurate? I hear there are behind the scenes rebates/holdbacks between maker and dealer that even the salesmen don't know about.

What is the best deal you can realistically hope to get on a European-delivery vehicle built to order?

I have a friend with a 1600 HP '16 GTR. Its so stupid and crazy that I've always wanted a GTR. He spent $60k on upgrades to get to 1600 HP apparently.

Christmas shopping is still a thing but January/Feb is when a dealership is most hard pressed to get rid of their inventory. The Armada that I currently have is a 17 Platinum that I purchased and it had $15,500 off MSRP. As for invoice, with Nissan we always showed the real invoice if it helped us sell a car but I haven't personally heard of rebates/holdbacks that weren't already mentioned or shown before (This is only concerning Nissan though, I haven't seen much with other Dealers). Dealerships who show their invoices online are weak retards.

You might be able to get something but most of the time no. I'd try to work a dealer for a couple of weeks and see if you can get anything out of it. Our dealer's owner has a Euro Delivered E63S AMG and he paid full MSRP for even though he's probably the biggest jew I've ever met.

I bought mine with the alpha package on it. Guess it was $30K or so for that. 900HP. Was super fun. Nothing ever beat you at a stop light or on the highway.