Computer fried

Looks like it is the socket that is wired for 220. Test it against earth. You will see that both sides carry 120.

who knows, that ground could be 480

I'm guessing you have the outlet on a 2pole 20amp breaker

>plugging computer directly into the wall outlet

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahaHAHAHAHAHAHAH

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Power supply, little red switch change it from 120 to 240

The neutral wire is hot. Test the both against ground you should get 120. The real issue is probably earlier in the circuit. Find where the power is coming from and redo the outlet that is causing this, You may not have a neutral in that box because of an incorrect connection earlier in the circuit. You could complete the circuit between ground and hot but it's not safe. Make sure to turn off the breaker for that circuit and retest to not shock yourself. Check all the outlets in the room. find where the problem starts and fixing it there could fix it everywhere.

^likely
Check your panel. hot connects to breaker, neutral connects to neutral bar, ground connects to ground bar and ground wire.

Time stamp or trolling
>pic file name

>Taking electical advise from /b

Try checking your switches. Is it doing this?

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Get an autosensing PSU and be done with it
Ideally find out why that outlet is 240 but given this is Yea Forums the first one may be a better idea

Electrician here.
That outlet is wired with two hots instead of a hot and a neutral. There are 2 or 3 "legs" in your panel, depending on whether you have a single-phase or three-phase service (how many hot wires come from the pole into your house). Most houses have two which we'll call A and B. There is a 110v potential between either A or B and neutral/ground, but between A and B there is a 210v potential.

In the electrical panel, the cable that feeds that outlet is probably on a 2-pole breaker normally used for dryers, air conditioners, etc. Moving the white wire from the breaker to the neutral bar (with the other white wires) and the black wire to a single-pole breaker will correct this problem. Do not do this yourself, you would have to take the cover off the panel to get to the screws and basically anything shiny under that cover (either copper or zinc) wants to kill you. You may be able to sue your electrician for the cost of the computer since 220v circuits are supposed to have a different shaped receptacle that won't let you plug 110v devices into them.

Whats with American electrics? Why cant you just up the voltage to 220/230/240V like most of the world? Don't need to worry about two voltages all the time.

Electrician and calling it "hot"? It's line and neutral you fucking donut.

It's just 120v it won't hurt

By the rules of the National Electric Code (NFPA Article 70, which is a law btw) 220v outlets are suppposed to be shaped differently so you can't plug into the wrong voltage. There may be a switch on OP's computer that could have prevented the problem, but the outlet is still incorrectly installed.

The computer has zero to do with it troll

Those words are literally interchangeable you fucking dolt. I’m also an electrician, I almost never hear someone refer to the “line” as line, most commonly “hot” and “neutral”

PS, it's called split phase.

Australian sparky reporting in, laughing at you all in 240 volts (though the American 60Hz is objectively better)

He likely knows that the majority of people reading this don't know what the fuck that means he is using laymen's terms, you fucking autist.

It's still fuckinjg dumb because you stress the wires with double the necessary current. Americans are pussies.

Elechicken here, Line is only ever said when we're talking about Line and Load. No one says line for the hot wire normally.

Maybe if you’re some europoor piece of trash, I fucking hate you euro faggots

>calling it "neutral"
It's "grounded conductor" (not to be confused with grounding conductor)

I'm qualified in the UK, but I have always wondered what your MCB ratings are in the US, given you only have half the voltage, I suspect you'd see higher currents.

No, in America, Canada, and Nihon, we have split phase power coming into homes.
The phases are 180 degrees off from each other rather than the 120 degrees off three phase is.
It's why two phases are 208 volts in commercial and two phases are 240 volts in residential.

What kinda whack ass English is this shit? Youre a fucking britbong aren’t you? Do me a favor and walk in front of a double decker bus

why the fuck would you do that
you need to put a resistor retard

I wish we had of done 240 from the beginning. Conductors can be half the size. We'd of saved a trillion dollars on just wire.

>The computer has zero to do with it
Yes, that's what I said. The outlet is still incorrectly installed.
voltage != current
In a 110v circuit, the neutral is carrying the same amperage load as the hot, and in a 220v circuit the two hots are carrying the same load. 20A is 20A regardless of the voltage.

A "normal" residential outlet is a 14ga wire with a 15 amp breaker and 120v. So 1800 watts.
Commercially most outlets are 12ga wire with a 20 amp breaker and 120v, so 2400 watts.

We run far larger wire than you do because of our lower voltage. It also makes v drop a bigger issue. We don't have "less power" we just have different power. How many watts can your average residential outlet supply?

Line is referred to as the core disconnected from Earth/Ground, and carries the incoming voltage.

Neutral is connected to earth and should always be close to zero volts.

BOTH LINE AND NEUTRAL ARE LIVE, unless the circuit is disconnected that is.

Grounded Conductor is what the NEC calls it, what the hell are you smoking and where can I get some?

Nope, I'm an American.
NFPA Article 70, better known as the NEC or National Electric Code, refers to it as the Grounded Conductor. It also calls lights "luminaires" for some reason.

Unless the Computer power supply can take both voltages, like most phone chargers can, then you fucked up but plugging into twice the voltage it can take.

You are very wrong there user
The amps being carried by 120v is literally twice that of 240v. That’s electricity 101

Why is american electrics so shit?
German here. If I check a socket with a voltmeter, a short between 2 phases is displayed instantly and doesn't show 210 volts.

We don't call cars fucking automobiles though, but yeah I get your point.

lol, why not use dc while we're at it. Then we could just use dc to dc converters.

fuck people are stupid.

yup P = I*E

We have like 3x the breakers than you do but we also have a crapton more outlets/sockets too. Most rooms have 4 or more outlets and usually one or two rooms share a 15 or 20A breaker.

In America you have to have an outlet every 6 feet of wall space and every 2 feet of counter space.
You're also meant to have individual arc fault breakers for every bed room's outlets and a dedicated lighting circuit.

Fun fact, every day at around 4:30pm, the British National Grid has to speed up all power plant generators because everyone is getting home and putting their kettles on for tea. Kettles usually run at 2kW each so millions of people doing it around the same time is a problem lol

Japan: "Hold my beer"

>More than one word cannot be used for he same thing

Fucking autists on this site...

Op what is the voltage to each of those to ground?

That happened to me...
I am so sorry.

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Thought it was every 10ft for outlets? House was built in 1989 so no AFCI's, at least it was done in mostly 12awg and not 14. Need to swap out an outdoor GFCI, siding is RIP so every time it rains that outlet freaks out.

There must be a problem in your altenator.

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Yeah but due to a copper shortage after WW2, most British residential circuits are still ring and not radial. It allowed us to use thinner cores able to take higher currents. Thus, a ring circuit for sockets is 2.5mm (13ga) with a 32A MCB, but a 2.5mm radial can only take up to 26A, usually a 20A MCB. 4mm (11ga) is required on a radial to take 32A. Usually the entire house is only split between two RCDs, but outdoor circuits are required by law to have their own RCD. Cookers and electric showers also have their own MCB.

>electricity 101
You should have kept going for the rest of the course. It's like this:
You have a device (a motor) that needs 200w to run. If you wire it for 110, it will pull a little under 2A. If you wire it for 220, it will pull a little under 1A. In this respect you are correct, as higher voltage yields the same wattage at a lower amperage.
HOWEVER
#14 wire is rated for 15A regardless of whether you are running 110v or 220v. A device that requires 2400W could run on #14 wire if it were 220v because it would be less than 10A. But if you were to build that 2400W device for 110 it would need #10 wire. We don't "stress the wire with double the necessary current", we use a bigger wire that is rated for that higher current.

Can you read you fucking moron?
I understand that you would need to increase the wire gauge size...I never said anything about that
All I said is that a lamp or appliance running on 120V will draw exactly double the amperage than it would running on 240V.
Maybe READ before you respond

That checks okay in my book.

That also checks out okay.

Yeah voltage regulator went out. It's probably internal so just pop into the parts store and get a new alternator. Running your cars eletronics over 14.5 volts can damage them.

Have you tried turning it off and back on again?

Brits call it neutral. Live, neutral, earth. Simples.

American wire gauges are different to UK ones, as well. Often catches people out in speccing things manufactured in the opposite place to where the design came from.

It's just neutral

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Or "the white one"

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Which is why America doubles the gauge of wire, in exchange for far less electrocuted grandma's.

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freedum coubtry has a weird 1 phase socket system

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Non electrican here I thougth L stands for load

Line is the incoming hot wire from the breaker and load is the side that pulls work or whatever is downstream.

If OP is still here, is the panel 120/240 or 120/208. If the former, you lost a neutral. If its the latter, judging by the cut-in box, you wired it up wrong.

L stands for Liberty
pew pew, merica

The black wire is the Line. The white one is neutral and the green one is ground (or bare copper is also ground)

Brits called the ground wire the earth wire, so it makes sense too.