HVAC guys of Yea Forums, is my AC overcharged?

These other dudes are retarded. You cant get subcool from reading a gauge like that. What's the ambient temperature outside?

Its about 95 F outside right now

Are you literally asking for HVAC advice on Yea Forums????

lol ikr

What's the temperature in the house? You cant leave your panel off inside at the air handler either

right now its 72

Then it's working. Your gauges are reading a 38 degree evaporator which is good for R22. If your head is high which it's not you calculate ambient temp plus 30 degrees for R22 so it should be 125 temp so you're low by about 15 psi.

Is how its running right now good for the compressor? Would like for it to be within ideal conditions for best efficiency and what not

This is the most adult and mature thread I've seen on Yea Forums in a long time.

That's what I thought but the angle of the dangle for the afterditty valve is off by 3 centimeters anybody can see that from pic. You need to tap it four times with a sledgehammer and your good to go. Thank me later ,

It's not horrible for it but if you could get your hands on some R22 and get your discharge pressure up to about 255-260 it would be ideal. Make sure you change the filter somewhat often and wash out the condenser coil as well. If you really want to see how the compressor is shutdown power and disconnect the plug or leads to it and test for ohms to ground with your meter.

Also don't use any drop in replacement for R22 they don't work for shit and create acidic conditions which will fuck the compressor.

Does that AC unit have tits, if so show them, if not, GTFO

Looks like you need to go back to school user.

OP posted the liquid line temperature of 110 at the condenser and the high side saturation temperature of 112 is right there on the gauges. Thats a subcooling of 2 degrees.

Do some reading before you give OP bad advice.

My bad I actually didn't see his picture of the liquid line. But he also had the panel open at the air handler which could account for the low subcool.

Everything else I've said is good advice though.

I didnt have it open while taking in the readings. Was just doing that for a little while and thought it might be helpful info for troubleshooting.

TBH i think my temp probe might be off on the liquid line there because i was getting so crazy readings when the unit was off, like it went to around 130ish. But the other op is right according to charts that im only at 2 degrees subcooling if that temperature is right on my meter.

ah, my bad then. You're cool. Yes you are correct about the panel being off, I must have missed OP saying that when I first read the post

Do you have any other thermometers you can check it with? Even a non-contact "laser" thermometer might work. The probe being off by even a few degrees is a big deal when charging or checking a system

Low on charge for 410A slightly overcharged for r22

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What makes you think that it's overcharged when his subcooling is 2?

Well we both came to the same conclusion you just paid better attention.

Your shit is low though OP. Clean your evap coil as well, and get it charged up a bit. Otherwise it should be good other than maybe a leak. If you're low that would explain the low subcool like the other Yea Forumsro said.

Only interesting thread on /b right now

Yes actually i took some reading with a IR non contact and im around 105-106 when the unit starts and then after a little while it will go to around 101-98. Its hard to get a good reading with it. I know this doesnt help at all and this isnt good info, but thanks for trying to help out.

yes or there could be a block at the condenser or the expansion valve isn't closing all the way

If your air filter is clean, both evap and condenser coils are clean and your blower and condenser fan motor/compressor capacitors are not getting weak then your subcooling is too low which indicates a slight undercharge. Get subcooling around the 10-12 deg range and take temperature drop measurement across the evap coil. Temp drop should be around 18 deg plus or minus a couple degrees

Whats your temperature split as well? If you have an IR shoot the supply and if you can take the temp probe before the evaporator to get the return air temp that would be good.

Basically if you have say a return temp of 72 you should be getting a supply temp of 52 for a 20 degree split which is average. If the return is say 80-90 you could have an air leak in your ducting which would cause a low supply air temp.

Also if adding refrigerant doesn’t help with the subcooling I would next assume a fault with the expansion valve. Funny what kind of people you find on Yea Forums huh?

I dont give a fuck about that. I know what pressures should be. That bullshit temp prob

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So I take it you you aren't an HVAC tech? Sounds like you're a schmuck in a truck that will do any job for a buck.

Pressures in any system are dependent on several variables including outdoor temperature, indoor temperature (which changes the TXV orifice size), indoor and outdoor airflow, and the length of and complexity of the lineset. The ONLY way to know if a system is operating correctly is by calculating superheat and subcooling or by charging by weight. Even charging by weight is discouraged because there's a big chance for calculation error unless it's a brand new system and you're using pre-built linesets that you didn't cut down at all.

OP here and i just want to say thank you to the guys that took the time trying to help me out. I'm going to try to get better educated and better tools to try to evaluate this.

I'm probably going to have to go to HVAC school as part of a new job req. Got any tips?