Apparently DIY is dead. So any HVAC professionals give me your input...

Lmao!

He "chemically cleaned" the outside unit or heat pump. Maybe the heat pump just isn't big enough for the square footage.

Those are brand new gauges, steal them and pawn them somewhere out of town.

many such cases! sad!

lmfaooooooooooooooooooooooo

Post a picture of the condenser, OP. HVAC tech here with 10 years exp in Pensacola, Fl.
You probably got hella holes in the ductwork on that ancient ass brick house.
How long have you lived there, have you had issues with it cooling before?

I'm trying to upgrade my HVAC without just adding more insulation first

this belongs on Yea Forums

is the clutch engaging? maybe too much oil in the compressor? post pic of the evap core

This is the good b

You're talking about automotive AC, there is no clutch. The evap core in a core is called and evap coil in an air handler.
Are you trolling because that was very specifically wrong, lol.

Not professional, but 46F (or 280K for you metric fags) is OK temperature/pressure for low side.
Check filters and give gauges back, Tyrone.
Based

Do you have a sight glass on your liquid line (smaller line)? Gauges aren't accurate when using them to read 410A. A digital meter should be used to match the sub cool temperature.

>my ac is having trouble keeping up in the summer
Does this mean that it runs constantly? Air not cold? It is blowing hard in the house (like your mom)?

>I had a big local company come by today
>Did this mf just attempt to scam me?

You tell me. How do you think this local company got big? HVAC techs are notorious for fucking ppl over CONSTANTLY. It's the main reason it's so lucrative. The majority of those guys are crooked as fuck.

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From the model it looks like a 2 ton heat pump....24 is 24 000 btu ...12000 is a ton which is small....what was the outside temp today?

>A digital meter should be used to match the sub cool temperature.
Literally nobody uses it in my shithole. Even with R410a.
Subcool temp you can get via temp clamp if needed, but in third world we use calibrated finger.

you have to take into account for the ambient outside temp when it comes to the charge

OP, open two valves on gague, this will add you extra cooling.
Also, unscrew center hose.

Respond, op. Ignore these other larping faggots, no amount of googling will replace experience.

It's a 5 year old cheapo "intertek" system, could still have a mfr part warranty, but it's also a 2 ton unit which is for small home, depending on your climate region.

as someone who has been fucked over by these garbage fucking scumbag hvac "techs" i agree.

and op theres some good info in this thread and we cant tell you just by looking at those guages. you gotta know the ambient temp and shit. just go feel your evaporator inside your house. is it cold all the way to the top? is it freezing over or some shit? if everything is fine then its obvious theres another issue

10 degrees of sub cooling with a TXV no more no less....what is the air temp at the intake and discharge of the furnace...delta T which means how many degrees is the temperature being dropped....across the coil on the furnace less than 15 degrees you got issues..

95 F. Bit that's for less than 2000 square feet.

dont do this

They fuck you because residential HVAC technicians are paid on commission, so it behooves them to put as much truck stock as possible. That's why I went to commercial HVAC and work on rack systems.

I'm not a newfag. I'm not gonna release all my coolant into the atmosphere. Lol

I double dog dare you to do it

Delta x to tango approxim. 6k (6thsrk) consider changing exhaust would be innaprioproate. Left gauge shows the measurement of degrees celcius or inevetable consistency of material. Measure number 12 on right valve shows insufficient hydraction tract and foreskin remova neccesary.

>10 degrees of sub cooling with a TXV no more no less
Shit, I forgot US AC use TXV. 90% of ACs here are mini-splits that use capillary tube, so subcooling is all over the place 5-8 degree C (9F - 15F).
Do it faggot. Also, add water to coolant, so it runs smoother.

That faggot "chemically cleaned" my outside unit and then told me he did it free of charge. Of course he did if he never informed me of the procedure or cost. He also wasnt ready for the $30 off coupon that he didn't check the validity of.

2 tons is too small my house is a ranch with 2000 square foot have a 3 ton unit 410a refrigerant....TXV on a 3 Ton coil .....I can keep my house 65 degrees when its 95 outside

Brick ranch decent windows excellent insulation

You have excess of freon, you must remove it.

Brick = shit insulation.
No, really.

Are heat pump units generally interchangeable? I have seen several 5 ton units for sale cheap.

There is a chemical cleaning that is common, but I seriously doubt your 5 year old condenser needed it and if he didn't charge then that a huge red flag that he doesn't know what's going on and was hoping it would bring the head pressure down.
It could be a myriad of problems that need to be diagnosed properly by someone who knows wtf they're doing.

Between roof and ceiling nigger ..

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OK then, it is good

Shit, you got temp sensors on the return and supply side, get me a good picture of the one going into the plenum above the airhandler. Are those showing wetbulb/drybulb temps?

He did say that shortly after cleaning, the pressure was low. But after it started reading normal.

No outside unit must match inside coil size ....3 ton outside unit 3 ton inside coil.... bigger coil can help humidify in damp climates with a slower blower speed....dehumidification is an ac units first function cooling is secondary too big a unit cools house too fast without removing humidity....damp cold houses suck crisp dry cool air is what you are after.

I will ask here.
I had installed one of those non-DIY mini splits out there.
And I didn't have vacuum pump, so being smart nigger, I opened one valve 1/4 turn (gas line), and opened suction schrader valve, for 15 seconds. How bad did I fuck up?

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Yeah, he was lost and didn't know what to do. A lot of residential techs are dumbasses because their company is only interested in getting them to push product/services.

Not OP

On most modern mini-splits you shouldn't need to vaccum pump them down, they are set with a specific charge already in the lineset.

Those are DIY mini splits. Mine is non-DIY, since it was cheaper, than window unit.
Shit cools nicely, but is low refrigerant (or air) in system dangerous? Did I remove air like that?

No I have a good fluke wet/dry bulb and pic below...getting 17 drop across coil but I know I'm overcharged first time doing txv and bulb is on bottom instead of the side of suction need to move...probably 15 degrees of subcooling.

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it should be ok if you're getting satisfactory temps out of it, but eventually the water from the air that got in, which is "non-condensable" will wreak havok on the compressors lifespan.
On a full size system you'll never get anything to balance and will eventually ruin the compressor as well.

What's your return wetbulb/drybulb temps?

>it should be ok if you're getting satisfactory temps out of it
Shit outputs 50F, cools room, works as intended I guess.
>, but eventually the water from the air that got in, which is "non-condensable" will wreak havok on the compressors lifespan.
But I used some pre-charged Freon to remove air. Was it sufficient? Valve got slightly cold when I was doing this.
In any case, compressors are cheap, playing with oxy-propane is always fun, and I know place where they sell any refrigerant without license, if you pay with cash.

Yeah, unit has rotary compressor (not scroll garbage) and capillary tube.

Those hvac guys party as hard as they work. Hard to keep up with em. Party on bro.

Put this in by myself......so I didn't go in depth it's just got into the 90s here so going to do what you said superheated is set right but I know I'm at 15 of subcooling 12 to 14 of superheat but it was cool at time of install ...the sensing bulb needs moved as well

can one of you smart hvac guys please explain the wet/dry bulb thing to me? im retarded and never really understood it. ELI5 version pls

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If you give me the wetbulb/drybulb at the return and the drybulb at the supply I can pinpoint exactly where your temps at and determine if it's the system or something else like ductwork, undersized system, etc.

Doing a deltaT calculation will determine if the machine is doing what it's supposed to do independent of other factors.
The deltaT will reveal if it's working right even if was ripped out of the house and sitting and running in the middle of a desert.

Your ac has too be running to give a proper reading, and it will fluctuate a little over time on the gauges. 45 is usually perfect for most systems. If your copper pipe coming out of the unit is condensation and really cold then your refrigerant is fine. Is your duct work sloppy? Are they just laying on the floor instead of strapped up? Are they too long for good airflow? Are they torn and insulation is coming off? All things you need to consider

What is the best method to learn how air conditioners and shit work? Playing around with shitbox AC, or fridge I found in trash?

Go to school.
The electrical part is pretty easy, especially if you know some electrical.
The refrigerant part, subcool/superheat can be pretty fucking daunting. Iwas still fucking up on it for a year or so until I got some field experience and figured a lot of variables to look for, and still 10 years later discovering new variables.

Get a job being a tool bitch or go to school then be someones tool bitch. Retards go to Hvac school then get paid 10 dollars and hour to carry my tools.

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True story. This is why I only used 2 semesters of a free scholarship.

>Go to school.
I forgot to mention, I want just to know and play around a little bit, not make a living of it.
>The electrical part is pretty easy, especially if you know some electrical.
Well, modern inverter stuff is pretty difficult to understand, unless you are EE, but HVAC specialists don't seem to repair those boards after failure, they just replace them.
But old stuff is pretty simple.
>The refrigerant part, subcool/superheat can be pretty fucking daunting. Iwas still fucking up on it for a year or so until I got some field experience and figured a lot of variables to look for, and still 10 years later discovering new variables.
Subcool is difference between temperature on freon in the beginning (once it enters coil) and exit, right? Like on fridge, freezer is super cool, yet fridge part is only 5C, so you have subcool over 30C.
I don't want to make living of it, just to play around with shit, and maybe repair AC in car, or fridge once or twice. Maybe install mini-split.

Only an absolute retard of a tech is going to leave his gauge set behind, still hooked to the fucking system. Get a second opinion. If air is coming out of your registers, you have at least nominal airflow. A/C is pretty bulletproof, as long s there's the right amount of refrigerant, good electrical components and airflow. All are very easy to diagnose. If he is even in the ballpark of a decent diagnosis of 'ductwork', I would check the returns and make sure you're not cooling air from the crawlspace, basement and blowing it into the house.

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Seems a little obsessive about the unit. “I must measure everything!!!”

>UVC
Is this a meme?

No, they do help clean the air. I've actually found them installed incorrectly and they shredded the filter.

So, I can't install small (3W) UVC bulb in mini-split, without runining plastic over time, right?

Seems like I have probable cause for a full system recharge.

They sell them for mini-splits. So if you can get it to fit, sure. It just shredded the filter because it's paper.

Hm... But do they degrade ABS plastic?

If it's a 24v light then you should wire it to a relay so that it only comes on when the system is running, will greatly increase the lifespan of the bulb and the stuff it shines on.
But that's in a standard system, i've never seen one on a minisplit and couldn't imagine why there would be.

>i've never seen one on a minisplit and couldn't imagine why there would be.
They get mold and shit eventually, and UVC might prevent it from growing

I've been working on minisplits for years, down here in the humidity of the Gulf coast.
I've never seen a minisplit that would benefit from a UV bulb. Occasional cleaning of the coils at most.
But I'm not going to pretend like I know everything,I'm always learning about new shit.

So, just better buy a cleaning bag thing and pressure wash it once in a while, right?

duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude you fuck

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Don't ever pressure wash your coils, pump sprayer at most. Chemical cleaning if they're "impacted" meaning the crud is deep between the fins.

>Don't ever pressure wash your coils
Why?
>Chemical cleaning if they're "impacted" meaning the crud is deep between the fins.
Won't chemicals damage aluminium and copper?

Op pic says it.
He tried to scam you

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The pressure from a pressure washer will bend and ruin the fins on the coil.
You chemically clean them with a specialized "coil cleaner" that you spray on and it dissolves dust and crud and drains off.

>The pressure from a pressure washer will bend and ruin the fins on the coil.
Nah, it won't. They are not that weak. Couple bars won't do anything to them

jesus christ, I hope you're not in the field telling people that bullshit.

No. But people have been washing window ACs for years with pressure washers, and they have similar fins.
If you see that stream is too strong and folds fins, I guess you can back it off a little bit.

Retard 350?! Holy fuck. Lvl 350 retard goddamn.

A water hose is more than sufficient, getting out the pressure washer is destructive overkill.
Don't ever pressure wash your coils, bro. All those bent fins affect the efficiency of the entire system. The less heat the condenser is able to remove the more head pressure the system has to disperse. Always take of your coils, man.

men have lost they're lives on "simillar"

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very interesting thread

>A water hose is more than sufficient
Maybe, if you don't live in shithole, where sometimes your water heater doesn't kick in due to low pressure

What will happen, if I will fill propane instead of R22?

I've personally never dealt with a R290 system. I imagine, off the top of my head, that you couldn't just use pure propane. R22 has mineral oil in it to lubricate the compressor, and it's mixed at a certain ratio to keep from slugging the compressor.
I would imagine R290 is special propane/oil refrigerant grade formula of some sort.
But like I said, I haven't dealt with them in the wild so I wouldn't feel right telling you that you could or couldn't.
Be very wary of what the internet says elsewhere, too. Take the time to learn the math of you're going to do anything with altering your refrigerant. temp/pressure charts are highly important because refrigerants are man made and you can't take a reading at one point and extrapolate, temps vary as pressure increases.

> I imagine, off the top of my head, that you couldn't just use pure propane
Because I'm cheap and I will use cooking propane which comes with smelly niggers in it.
>R22 has mineral oil in it to lubricate the compressor, and it's mixed at a certain ratio to keep from slugging the compressor.
Propane is compatible with mineral oils too, so I don't see a problem here
>. Take the time to learn the math of you're going to do anything with altering your refrigerant. temp/pressure charts a
It is pretty close to R22 in terms of pressures, maybe even lower at higher temperatures.
Idk, I have seen people filling car AC with isobutane-propane cooking mix with no issues, while getting better performance compared to R134a.

>Read the gauge that corresponds to r410a.
Those gauges are temperature, not PSI.
The outside gauge is what he should be reading in regard to pressure.

>even if was ripped out of the house and sitting and running in the middle of a desert.
Ooh I can help with this, I live in the desert. Just ship it to me and tell me what to measure.

No op im a pro hvac the pressures are fine aslong as its about 125 or so on the blue side and below 300 on the red side

>clogged

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