Posted on /o/ also

Posted on /o/ also.
Hoping you guys can help me with my 2004 Mustang GT.
Long story, detailed, in hope I can get some help.
>RPMs drop sharply around 1500-2000 to 1000,mostly around 2nd gear, around 40-50mph but can be a lot less
>Feels like tracking control is kicking in
>If I barely tap on the break and then continue to accelerate, it's fine.
>Had ABS module rebuilt, same.
>Have mostly all new sensors as engine had forged internals put in 1yr ago
>Take it to Autozone, sais low voltage TPS. Replace it. Same

You name it, I've probably done it.

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Ok, so, my limited amount of knowledge of cars is pretty damn small. But I had basically the same issue on my 1998 Volvo V40.
I've had two of them, on the first one it was the air mass meter that was faulty, exchanged it and everything was fine. Same issue as you describe.
On my second Volvo V40 it was the spark plugs, they were firing on the low rpms but as soon as I went over 2000 they couldn't handle the extra fuel so it basically felt like my car was losing power on low gears, low rpms. On higher gears and higher rpms I didn't have this issue.

Don't know if that's applicable for your situation at all, but this is some of the best, non BS answers you're gonna get on Yea Forums.

Good luck.

Thanks. I've changed both as well.
The coil plug wires are extra secured with zip ties, but maybe that isn't enough. Considering buying new ones and splicing them. I'm grasping at straws now

Sounds like a mass air flow sensor or a fuel pump. Most likely the MAF, it sounds like it is leaning out at higher throttle. I would pick up one from a scrap yard for just a few bucks just to see if that fixes it. And if it doent just return it for you money back. Also check for breaks/cracks in your air intake tubes.

Haven't changed the fuel pump, but did change MAF.
I want to just take it to mechanic, but they're all trying to fucking Jew me without a solution

Well, can't help you in that case. If its not the air mass meter then I'm at a loss. Try to sell it off to some schmuck.

To much time and love to do that. Thanks for the suggestion thou

Dude mustangs trans are absolute shit.
Look into that.
Also, whens the last time you changed your trans fluid

Diagnostics at a shop is expensive. Check your fuel pressure because maybe your pump isn't keeping up. Also if you have a scan tool check out the O2 sensor data(compair one bank against the other) to make sure they are acting right. The worst thing you can do it just start throwing parts at it.

Sry if bad English
It might be the injection timing who got wrong and you have some kind of misfires
Check the owner's manual to see how the belt/camshaft etc should be ajusted

Also watch chrisfix vids on YT this guy is gold

Never. It's an Auto if it matters. I rather have it be the fucking trans so I can just buy one to handle the supercharger I'm gonna slap on it.

An obd reader might be useful

Thanks. That is straight up beyond my skills and knowledge on how to check or do. Looks more and more likely I'm just gonna have to find a mechanic who can fix it and not rape me. At least use lubes damit.

Automatic trans fluid suggests every 15K miles by manufacturer. 30K is the average someone changes it, definitely give it a look.

I'll research that then. Just checked the dipstick and it looks fine, but don't know what I'm look for exactly(Color/quantity)

Harbor freight has a 25% off coupon this weekend.i have had their OBD 2 scanner for awhile works very well.Trouble codes. Limited graphing for checking for sensors and injectors problems,updates through the net.Zurich ZR13 not bad for what it is.

Did you check the plugs, coil packs and lastly the injectors?

Find a local cars and coffee group and start talking to mustang people.

>be me
>going to Yea Forums to find some fap content
>getting stuck into this thread

My opinion is that the problem should be in transmission. Otherwise, check engine light should be turned on

Really sounds like this, or trans related.
I have a 2013 mustang gt, but manual trans. Had a auto in the past that acted as you say, and it was a clogged trans filter. Bought the car used with 60k miles, and apparently the trans had never been serviced.

Also, anyone know wtf this part is. Idk if it was always like that ir they fucked it up when I had the forged internals put it in, but just saw it when the wheel shroud was coming off
>Front Drivers side

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Better picture of it

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That looks like the horn.

Does the problem happen when you're driving at a consistent speed or accelerating?

Those fucking cucks hate on EVERYTHING.
I have a custom made bumper for it that sais "Mustang" instead of Cobra (Like the 03-04).
I'd get eaten alive.lol

Well I appreciate it man.
Check engine light is always on. Catless

Horn. Did you take off the inner fender lining to look at it? Because that area should be covered up.

Well like I told the other user, I've never serviced it and I've had it for 10 year years almost. 100k miles. So I'll definitely be giving that a read tonight.

Both

It was coming off, so it took it off. Been meaning to get a new one.
So I'm guessing these go to the windshield wiper motor that's missing in mine?

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It's 15 years old broski. Time for a new car.

I'm man enough to admit that I wouldn't know what the fuck I'm looking for mate. Thanks for the suggestion.
>All my friends drive BS cars and couldn't give a flying fuck about em

have you verified timing?

I did. But this is my baby. I'll NEVER give up on it. I love the looks, the interior is great and just had it redone.
>In a perfect world, I'd have the engine of that 5.0 in this bad boy and call it a day

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Try scanning error codes then. It should not be that expensive, or you can even do it at home with a scanner or it can be done with a paperclip by closing some specific contacts on the scanner ports(google it, idk for mustangs but it works on my car)

No, I don't know how. What would cause to get , idk, Untimed?

Is that different than what they do at Autozone?

It is just computer scan. If it was done it should not be an engine problem I think. But I am not a car mechanic and I have never driven an auto transmission longer than 1 hour :)

I think you should get rid of an auto transmission anyway. It is not the best for an old car. I have a manual on a Volvo and its only problem was clutch which is easily detected and fixed.
Sorry if bad english in my posts btw, 3rd language

Gotten many different suggestions so far, I appreciate it. So far I'm definitely going to research the transmission and maybe tackle it next weekend

Spark plugs(replace them)
Throttle body(clean it)

Both done, nada.

Remove the fuse for ABS and disabled traction control then get back to us. I don't really work with ford but it sounds like one of your systems is having the big gay. Have you left the battery unplugged for a couple hours? It might reset some parameters in the ecu. I know it sounds silly but we're all shooting in the dark without much info. Let us know!

Have removed the ABS fuse and unplugged the battery for a a day. Remains the same.
I'm telling, I've researched the fuck outta
this.lol.
I think I it's brake related since if I tap the brake, it goes back to normal AND it feel like it's bogging down like when traction control kicks in.
I upgraded all the brake calipers a year ago also, so it's not that they are sticking. At least to my knowledge.
I'm in Houston if anyone knows a trusted shop