Mechanics and car aficionados of Yea Forums. Car recently started making a fast low-pitch knocking sound (kinda like when you hit the lines on the edge of the road) when I hit ~20mph. Originating somewhere in the front and increasing with speed.
It's not coming from the engine, and the weirdest part it is goes away completely when I turn the wheel slightly to the right. I hit a curb a couple weeks back so maybe I just threw one of those lil' tire weights?
Any insights would be appreciated!
TL;DR: Weird knocking sound that goes away when I turn the wheel. Thrown
Could try getting the wheels balanced/rotated and see if that solves it
Michael Brown
Could be worse I guess. Thanks for the help!
Juan Rogers
its pretty rare but could be the camshaft sensor
Isaac Williams
If it's not wheel bearing it'll probably be cv joint or ball joint. One of the 3 I reckon
Jordan Davis
My $'s on the cv joint
Easton James
Good luck getting that wheel bearing off now that you’ve neglected all the symptoms and kept driving like a fucktard
Kayden Murphy
Yep. I agree.
Eli Scott
Car guy here.
Just short of welding (unless you're a hobbyist welder, or your job involves it) you can do literally everything including pulling an engine in your driveway.
That sounds EXACTLY like a wheel bearing that's dead up front. Take care of that now, or else it could end up destroying multiple other parts. Tie rod ends, control arm bushings, and potentially your strut/shock are at risk with that bearing sounding like it's about to disintegrate.
If you're in the US, hit up something like O'Reilly Auto Parts for some more specific tools that you may not have on-hand. A wheel bearing now days is usually part of a hub, so it's not that hard.
It'll probably involve the following:
taking off the wheel. Taking the brake caliper off. Taking the brake rotor off. taking the hub off. replacing the hub. repeat the above in reverse order, or something to that degree.
Just pop it into youtube if you're unsure of where to continue from, there's most likely a video with your exact car being worked on as an example.
If you take it to a shop, they're going to want easily $400 minimum for this with parts. Do it yourself for just the cost of the parts.
>the CV joint will wear out and eventually fail. A most regularly occurring symptom of a badly-worn outer CV joint is a clicking or popping noise when you make a turn.
Just the first thing that come up on Google. I haven't heard any weird noises as I turn. It's the opposite; the noise goes away.
Kayden Nguyen
Because it's on acceleration and goes away with speed, it's not likely his CV joint on a front wheel drive car. Those will get louder and vibrate worse and worse as speed increases, rather than the noise going away. The wheel bearing is more likely, because as it loads up from torque and shit with the car speeding up, it'll just ride up inside on one part of the bearing race, making the clunking and vibration seem like it 'goes away'.
Jason Campbell
That's what makes me think hub, as its under load when you turn, but makes a noise when it's not. Good luck dude
Justin Taylor
> all the symptoms I am a retard. But there was only ever 1 symptom.
Josiah Rodriguez
Nope. Tiny little piece of shit Ford Fiesta. It increases in pitch as speed increases. But it doesn't go away until I get below like 20mph.
Colton Rogers
Protip:
Get yourself a good dad that can help fix thing while teaching you LOLOLOLOL
OP HAS SHITTY DAD
Luis Bennett
I appreciate the effort, but I am a complete soccer mom idiot when doing anything handy.
I'd rather pay the 400 bucks, instead than the 400 bucks later + everything I spent on tools after I fail miserably.
Gabriel Gutierrez
>OP HAS SHITTY DAD Bruh you don't even know the half of it.
Lucas Rogers
>It's so easy You forget to mention he'll need a press to replace the bearing or one of those shitty screw type tools chrisfag uses.
Angel Green
>Festa Euro user?
Ryder Russell
Indeed. Danish to be more specific.
Michael Butler
Britfag mechanic here. I agree with others here, could be a bearing etc but when exactly did it start? Does it ever go away beyond a certain speed? Any accidents lately? Would you say it's a droning noise?
Hunter Cox
A couple weeks ago. But it hasn't changed at all since then. Just one random day I noticed that it was making that thrumming sound. The best way I can describe it is like when you hit those lines on the side of the road meant to wake you up.
Now that you mention it, it does actually become less bad between like 30-40mph and then comes back. I noticed it a couple weeks after I hit a curb pretty hard. Was turning left in a T-intersection and I hit the opposite curb with the right wheel.
Christopher Reyes
Or I guess you could say it sounds like a V6 engine speeding up.
Charles Sanchez
if you were on /o/ id give you sensible advice but as your here i can say with confidence that you should fill your car with rice, not a little full, but completley full! Also dont foget to put rice in these often fogotten about places >engine cooling system >engine lubrication system >gearbox >window washer jet bottle >brake hydraulic system >the little dome in the boot where the spare wheel goes >constant velocity joints >power steering system if the knocking still occurs post an update
Isaiah Diaz
wheel bearing dead cheap to get replaced / do yourself xxx
Nathan Sanchez
Car is totalled
Oliver Kelly
A bearing usually drones. It's possibly you slightly bent a shocker when you hit the curb, seen this before, a balance weight could be running against the shocker. This will give you a noise every full rotation which could sound like a noise like a white line. Jack it up and rotate the wheel and look for contacting, also spin the wheel really hard by hand if you hear the noise it's the bearing. Also grab the wheel at 9 and 3 and then 12 and 6 wiggling it hard lol. There should be no noticeable movement, if there is get some one to press the brake and repeat it, if it goes away then there is bearing free play.
Zachary Young
Had a similar issue. Turnedout to be my CV joint. Ordered on amazon for like $100 and my mechanic charged me $300
Nicholas Kelly
Check your suspensions. Outter tie rods, inner tie rods, brushings, and finally wheel bearings. There’s are videos that show u how to do that
Angel Cook
10 years and I didn't know Yea Forums had a car board. My apologies.
William Bell
Sounds like a wheel bearing or a worn out cv shaft. Does it get louder at full lock? Any popping? Lift the front end to check the wheels for play in any direction, and grab hold of the cv shafts (if accessible without removal) and check them for play as well
Austin Bennett
This.... Well definitely the last bit about checking play and spinning the wheel for rumbling sounds. The first part makes sense. Unlikely, but I like where you're going with it my dude.
Adam Cox
You forgot to tell him to top up the blinker fluid. I stopped giving advice on /o/ cos there's more shitposters than all other boards combined, that and fucking tripfags. Fuck you S/o/viet.
Liam Morgan
I might be a car dunce, but this I can try. Thanks!
Carter Parker
It's hard to give exact advice on a Peruvian basket weaving repository.
Ryan Ross
Also forgot to add, if the cv shafts dont show signs of wear, make sure the clamps at either end of the boot are secure. Even the slightest leak will wear out the joint in no time. Replaced a cv once and 4 months later i had to replace it again because the boot had slipped off the inner shaft and all the grease came out, causing it to click and pop.
Josiah Nelson
Full lock? Like when turning all the way? No. And no popping either.
Brayden Phillips
Have you ever played with Legos? It's the same thing but with tools and grease also AutoZone has tool rentals and I think it's actually free (they don't rent basic tools like ratchets and screwdrivers but you should have those anyways) Good Luck!
Christian Ortiz
Unfortunately I'm not American. I'll try what the other anons suggested, jacking it up and checking the wheels for play and noises.
Alexander Bell
Could also be loose gravel in the crank shaft. I had a similar problem, thought it was a knock in the engine. Wasn't the engine. I spent around ~800 USD to find out it was a piece of gravel in my crank shaft.
Juan Lopez
My car is a nigger
Jaxson Murphy
So many people assuming everyone is a septic on here.
David Ortiz
Septic? Like a grease monkey? I actually didn't expect to get a reply. Thinking most Yea Forums fags are fat NEET's working desk jobs.
Gabriel Davis
Yeah full lock is when the wheel hits the turn stop (endof turn radius). If it clicks at full lock when you aren’t moving, thats your power steering pump. Some noise is normal but loud excessive clickingmeans your pump is porbably on its way out. If you get clicking only when turning in motion it’s probably a cv joint. Do you get any ‘wub wub wub’ sounds at all? Particularly when decelerating? Any noticable play in the steering?
Jeremiah Lewis
How the fuck did you get gravel in the crankshaft?
Thomas Adams
I have no idea to this day. Kind of explains why I couldn't fucking figure out where it was coming from though.
Asher Foster
Don't know if you can watch this where you are but this is the method we use in the UK for inspecting suspension. Might give you a clue on bearing checks. youtu.be/Nsv_eb5cBlo
Connor Jackson
Septic tank = yank.
Jaxon Perez
There is an almost inaudible wub wub sound I noticed once or twice at lower speeds. But it's almost impossible to hear over the louder high pitched knocking. There is a little play in the steering. But I bought the car used and it was like that from the beginning I'm pretty sure. And it's really not much play.
Julian Martin
cv joint maybe
Adam Turner
Did you find the gravel or a mechanic?
Michael Sullivan
Search turbo encabulator. Originally a Chrysler thing but can cause funny issues
Landon Price
And yes it was when decelerating.
Evan Lewis
Hard to tell without seeing it first hand but based on what you’re saying I’d put my money on a worn out cv shaft. Like i said could be a bearing too, make sure to check everything anyway, but bearings usually drone, hum, or growl as opposed to clicking. Hope you figure it out and save some cash doing it yourself.
Dylan Howard
Doesn't help my native language isn't English. So describing sounds is kinda hard.
I'd like to do it myself, but I literally never had my hands on an engine before. Always just driven $1000 used cars and scrapped them for 500 when they gave out. Finally paid more this time and it lasted the shortest, go figure.
Noah Price
Newer cars are literal shit.
Elijah Jenkins
Could also be a broken belt in the tire that hit the curb.
Ayden Howard
mechanic but if he was lying about it being gravel, the noise stopped afterward I would also really like to know how gravel got into a closed system but the world is full of mysteries.
Isaiah Murphy
That's easy to fix. Buy a new car. Mercedes has a new model out.
Oliver Thompson
Don’t be intimidated man, i bought my first car at 16 for $1500 and didn’t even know how to change the oil. Now I’ve torn down three of the same model and know where every bolt is on my truck. It’s still my daily driver to this day. Fuck ups happen, and sometimes you may inadvertently throw money at a problem trying to figure it out, but it’s a learning process, and being able to work on your car yourself is an invaluable skill that will save thousands in the long run. Hope you figure it out bud, you’ll feel like a champ when you do
Hunter Garcia
It's a mystery. I'm a mechanic and I can't see how gravel would get in without intervention and how it didn't completely fuck the crank journals. Even if I poured a thimble full of sand into your oil it could score the crank bearings.
Ian Jenkins
Thanks. I'll definitely try tinkering with it, following the advice itt.
Jaxson Sanders
nah you right fam i made that shit up so i could draw out the real mechanic in the crowd and get a real opinion on something: My brake fluid retention keeps mysteriously draining. I've replaced the lines, the master cylinder and I've inspected the pads and the rear drums; the brakes continue to work well enough, though they are obviously not receiving full pressure. Yes, I have cleared the lines. Somehow the retention in the MC keeps draining but the lines themselves retain fluid.
Explain that plz
Nathaniel Collins
Without seeing it, it could be anything
Check upper and lower control arm s and bushings that are in them
Check any unions or connections to the master, abs pump (if you have one), calipers, and any transitions from hard line to flex line. Also checkyour resevoir for leaks or cracks. It has to be going somewhere. Does the fluid ever rise? Could be air inthe system too, although you’d probably notice a big loss of braking power. Not the mechanic that replied but i have a bit of experience with brake systems
Thomas Russell
Wheel bearing. Get it fixed ASAP or it'll fuck your shit up. Max $500 fix
Zachary Harris
Should’ve also asked, did you replace just the hard lines or flex lines too?
Ian Lee
Could be; >wheel bearing >CV axle >piece of plastic fender liner/under bumper diffuser >loose parts in general
Do you feel any shaking in the wheel at all?(up/down, side/side?) >if so could be tires need balancing or the rim got bent
>does the sound get louder/faster while turning at all? I know you stated it goes away while turning right slightly.
Pics will help a TON. Try to get a pic of the underside, wheel, bumper, behind tire (like between the tire and engine bay)
>Automotive mechanic of 15 years >Light duty trucks/cars/vans/farm equipment
Carter Butler
the mbc is fine, so are the pads and the line. Might actually be the ABS...
Jaxson Hall
It's primetime in merkia, what do you expect.
It's nearly eleven bongs, better make time for the national anthem before the Internet switches off.
Robert Campbell
Ah, uk mechanic. Fuck knows lol. Easiest option is to get someone to pump the brakes while you look for leaks. I take it the rear wheel cylinders are not leaking?
Austin Diaz
Was it a brand new m/c or new as in from another car?
Bentley Turner
Don't appear to be, no. It was pulled but I inspected it very carefully, filled it up and watched all around the sides for any leaks, made sure the cap was on. It's not the brake master, I'm pretty sure about that. It's gotta either be the ABS or one of the rear drums has a leak I didn't notice.
I've never done any work on an ABS system before but I know brake drums are an absolute fucking bitch.
Remember that just because its new doesn’t mean its funtioning properly. I’ve had many aftermarket parts come DOA. May not be the case but don’t rule it out just because it’s new
Luke Butler
Nvm, didn’t see you pulled it. All bets are off then
Samuel Cox
Inspected it pretty carefully, it has to be leaking elsewhere. I'm going to pay closer attention to the ABS and go look at the drums again and again just to be sure. It's kind of driving me nuts but there must be some reason for it. I like to drive around fast and I can't really do that with brakes that are only working at about half capacity.
Evan Jenkins
Surely that's expected if you have a leak?
The master cylinder is designed so that when you release the brakes it pulls fluid (or air) out the brake reservoir and not the brake lines. It's less a cylinder and more a pump, albeit a pump that doesn't do any pumping unless there's a leak. If the master cylinder didn't work like this, you couldn't bleed the brakes by opening the bleed nipples and pumping the pedal.
As long as there's some fluid in the reservoir or cylinder, the brake lines will be full (and therefore functional) no matter what rate they leak.
Wheel is shaking a tiny bit. But so is the rest of the car I feel like. Sound just fades as I turn the wheel, until it goes away after turning it like a hand span.
It's midnight atm so pics would be hard.
Alexander Butler
Opposite problem dude. The reservoir is always empty but the lines always have fluid.
Joseph Richardson
>it has to be going somewhere This. Brake fluid doesn't just vanish.
Jace Miller
probably some missalignment or some shit wheels might be contacting the wheel well
Isaiah Cooper
Drums are easy, at least on UK spec cars. It's possible a leak at the abs valve block but a wheel cylinder is more likely, use some vice grips and gently pinch the hose to each wheel one at a time and see if the pedal firms up. Double check the m/c it's possible to leak into the servo, is there any white smoke from the exhaust? Sometimes b/f can be drawn into the engine if there's a leak into the servo.
Asher Young
No it's the getting them open part lol
Christian Davis
Well check what ideas have been listed user. And if in doubt, just go to a shop
Kevin Cox
low blinker fluid
Andrew Miller
Do you have trouble reading or do I have trouble writing? Reservoir empty and lines full is absolutely normal behaviour and is what you should expect when you have a leak.
The system is designed to always refill the lines from the reservoir so one tiny leak won't completely disable your braking and kill you.
Carson Martinez
no white smoke, btw. I'll try what you said about pinching the lines, but like I said the strange part about it is that even though the reservoir itself is fine, it still empties fairly quickly after being filled but fluid will stay in the lines (it would have to or my brakes wouldn't really work at all and I'd have to resort to e-braking it which is obviously a terrible fucking idea). It has to be getting lost somewhere between the BMC and the pads/drums. When you/other user said ABS I realized that's probably where the action is happening.
Could be a leaking drum but I inspected those and didn't notice any fluid. I'll check them again.
Thanks for the help guys.
Gabriel Sullivan
>797101225 It can't refill the lines from the reservoir if the reservoir is always empty. So yes, friend, I believe it may be you having difficulty reading.
Nathan King
I snapped a couple of shitty pictures anyway. Didn't know where to look, and had to work a little torch too.
Go to bed. Worry about it tomorrow, don't fuck around in the dark.
Landon King
This is good advice.
Joseph Thomas
Yeah that sounds like good advice. Have to drive this shit to work tomorrow though.
Gabriel Cook
Check the wear on your tire. Suspension starts sagging on older cars and can cause the wheels to wear improperly. Basically the tire angle geometry changes and starts to develop a flat spot from skipping a bit. If that isn't it, then my vote is wheel bearing
Bentley Young
It's not getting any safer, just take it easy or get a lift till you figure it out.
You asked >the MC keeps draining but the lines themselves retain fluid >explain that please
And your explanation is: - the MC is designed to pump fluid in if it can, but never pump in air and never pull out fluid. So the MC draining and the lines staying full is NORMAL.
Jayden Thompson
He's not gonna damage anything other than the bearing by driving a few miles since he first heard it.
Andrew Miller
If it is that for sure get it taken care of asap you don't want a tire flying off on the road. If you're not terrible with fixing things yourself it's not a hard fix with a couple youtube videos.
