Car Yea Forumsros

You have to seat the pads, after install you should do a few even preasure gentle stops to fully seat pads.

...

Don't do this. It's the deleting system 32 version of brakes.
Did the car sit for a while before you drove it? New clean rotors can get a bead of rust on it within a few days that will make a thumping like sound when braking.

I don't think it has anything to do with it not being bedded yet. Are you sure you put the springs or pins back in? Did you open the bleeder value at any point?

are you 70y/o? no one resurfaces rotors anymore...
don't do that again

squealing might be either a loose clip or ceramics
if you indeed warped your rotors you need new ones, if you see spots on rotors with discoloration you might need to clean them with break cleaner and bed them- but bedding is not a requirement.

>Are you sure you put the springs or pins back in?
disk/rotors nigga, you talking drums nigga

Also, just so you know, no one really beds in their brakes. Just think about all the mechanics that just install them and then the owner drives away without a second thought.

the word isn't "bed" its "bleed". You probably have air in your brake line. Those youtube videos should have showed you this. also learn to drive so you don't ruin your rotors.

I drove it basically immediately after finishing installing them to test them. It's been about 2 weeks now. I didn't open any bleeder valves as far as I know. I did remove, relubricate, and replace the caliper pins after installing.

It's for a 2014 hyundai sonata if that makes a difference.

>Everything I was reading that mentioned the same symptoms I'm having was saying it was because brakes need to be "bedded" when new so as to evenly coat the rotor. Is this not the case?
its usually for performance breaks, if you avoid breaking hard and then holding your breaks down when stopped you should be ok

No, he's talking about bedding, not bleeding, dumbass.

>squealing might be either a loose clip or ceramics

So you would recommend reseating the shims?

>don't know what bedding breaks is

did you get ceramic breaks?

No, I'm talking about the calipers. Nearly all of them have a retaining spring or pin that stops the pads from moving too much.
Not sure what the problem could be. Have you checked to see if the squeaking brakes are hotter than the other ones? That could be a sign of a stuck caliper. That can happen if you try to push in the piston of a caliper that should be winded back in or if the piston movse too far in either direction. The pad or caliper could also be somehow installed incorrectly.

Regardless your rotors and pads should still be good at this point.

I'm actually really relieved to hear that bedding isn't 100% necessary to a successful install job.

I guess I just don't know what's causing the squealing and was looking for similar symptoms.

The brakes still squeal though, and I'd obviously like to fix that.

These are the specific pads I got:
rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10204164&jsn=313

ASE master here.

Bedding in properly (multiple stops from surface street speeds to near complete stops + hiway for cooling and, no complete stops, i.e hold brakes at stop) is a requirement in my opinion for proper brake operation and bed in. Hi performance pads, up speed but same shit.

Avoid cheap part store pads as they are notorious for pulsations and noise.

>Have you checked to see if the squeaking brakes are hotter than the other ones?

Actually, I do notice that one side is hotter than the other! But I can't say for sure which side is squealing. I want to say it sounds like both sides.

>Nearly all of them have a retaining spring or pin that stops the pads from moving too much.
thats usually refereed to as clips, but technically you are right they are springs

Just saw this after I posted. Those should make noise. Pulsation is not normal tho, and a performance pad like that should follow a proper pad bed in procedure for optimum performance

>The rotors are warped because they're new and I didn't break them in properly or what?
Its probably more about how you drive. Warpage is due to excessive heat. I'm guessing you live in town and make frequent stops. Increase your braking distance once you have them re-surfaced.

>Everything I was reading that mentioned the same symptoms I'm having was saying it was because brakes need to be "bedded" when new so as to evenly coat the rotor. Is this not the case?
I've never done that and I've never had a problem unless the rotors were warped.

>These are the specific pads I got:
>rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10204164&jsn=313
jesus kid, are they ceramic? its a yes/no
do they squeal all the time or only at the beginning of driving?
did you apply shims/anti vibration grease behind the pads?

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You should bed ceramics but its not the end of the world if you dont. Did you put a lubricant on the pads (obviously not the braking surface)? Take them apart, lube them, bed them, profit.

>Pulsation is not normal tho
it is for cold ceramic breaks

>are you 70y/o? no one resurfaces rotors anymore...
Its common and many/most autoparts stores do that. You're confusing the resurfacing of rotors with valve grinding.

no one does that anymore where i'm from, good on you tho. i hated them when they stopped

The symptom of that would be a sticking brake. Although, that could cause the warpage.

Yes

Not him I'm 30 and I will still get rotors cut. When you have an older 2500 that rotors are also hubs and they cost 160 each you will have them resurfaced at least once.

yes to all 3 questions? if so this is normal- next time don't buy ceramics, its a meme unless you actually take the car to the track

Unless you've been tearing up mountain passes your rotors aren't warped. Ceramic pads squeal, accept it. Bedding in the pads is easy, either brake slowly and casually for a while OR drive on a good straight side road, get up to 50 or 60mph and apply the brakes smoothly but firmly until you've come down to about 20mph. Repeat for several passes and then go for a drive without stops so the pads and calipers can cool a little before coming to a full stop. This will help bed the rotors evenly and quickly and prevent hot spots during the process.

If you still have a shudder inspect the caliper glide pins for wear. With the whole assembly in place rotate the rotors and see if the brakes grab at one spot where they spin freely for the rest of the rotation. The rotor should rotate smoothly the entire rotation.

What model and year car? That could tell us what kind of calipers. If you have, for instance, a Toyota, you might have calipers that just need to be compressed back in but if you have a Mazda that requires them to be screwed in and you just used channel locks to push them back in, then you might have a jammed caliper.

Is it possible to "clean" the rotor and do the bedding process properly even though they've been in use already? If they're supposed to squeal loudly as you say, then maybe they're fine and I'm imaging the pulsations in search of a fix for the squeals. They don't pulsate 24/7, but if I brake at just the right pressure to where it's just before a squeal, I can feel and almost hear the friction sort of grinding.

>jesus kid, are they ceramic? its a yes/no
Sorry, yes they are.

>do they squeal all the time or only at the beginning of driving?
They typically begin to squeal after the car has heated up for about 10-25 minutes. They do not squeal as much if it's raining or cold out.

>did you apply shims/anti vibration grease behind the pads?
Yes I did.

>non-chlorinated
What a fag.

No, I'm saying "yes, he has ceramic brakes".

That's a good indication. Maybe the caliper was stuck before you even worked on it. You should check your old pads to see if one is thicker than the other.

You should have compared the old pad to the new pad to rule out getting the wrong part. If you go back to work on it, check that the caliper can slide back and forth because sometimes the sliding pins can get gummed up and stick to the rotor even without pressure. Sometimes stuck break calipers can retract without much issue but there's enough tension to make it stick while in use. You could also try putting back on your old pads to see if the sound goes away, then you know that's the problem.

>Unless you've been tearing up mountain passes your rotors aren't warped.
I've gotten mine warped. It depends on the weight of the car and what you're doing. Mailmen often have that problem.

2014 hyundai sonata. I used a torque wrench and followed what was recommended torque for the various bolts, but I'm not ruling out that it could be the calipers sticking.

>but if I brake at just the right pressure to where it's just before a squeal, I can feel and almost hear the friction sort of grinding
thats normal
>next time don't buy ceramics, its a meme unless you actually take the car to the track

Next time take it to a shop. Seriously. Did you even lathe the rotors?

Look for something stupid, like a dust shield bent close to the disc

>
>Not him I'm 30 and I will still get rotors cut. When you have an older 2500 that rotors are also hubs and they cost 160 each you will have them resurfaced at least once.

Agreed.

How fucking long did this take you

>
>>Unless you've been tearing up mountain passes your rotors aren't warped.
>I've gotten mine warped. It depends on the weight of the car and what you're doing. Mailmen often have that problem.

In two weeks in a Hyundai Sonata? Not likely.

Just keep driving & it'll probably go away

Okay, so I'm feeling a lot better overall. Basically I'm understanding from you all that the pads I've chosen are going to squeal. That makes me feel a lot better. I wish I had known that ahead of time, but I can deal as long as it's not going to be screwing anything up. It just gets loud and so I was worried

I do plan on taking it apart again just to make sure there's nothing that looks messed up. When I do, I'm going to check to see if it's sticking. To clarify on how to identify a gummed up caliper: I am to check to make sure the caliper piston is sliding freely? If it IS stuck, is there a way to clean it, or do I just need to replace the caliper?

Thank you all for your help, guise. I really appreciate it a lot.

You fucked up. Brembo outsources.
youtu.be/x6_ag_XXUO8

Ceramics such because of noise but they don't kill the rotors like bisexual metallic or organic(i.e. the cheap shit you get on a used car that has new brakes).

lol. I was TRYING to fucking do things right so as to avoid problems.

>If it IS stuck, is there a way to clean it, or do I just need to replace the caliper?
yes you can take the bolts out and the piston will come out, remove the rubber boot first obv... clean lube up with break grease and viola.... i do that regularly on my 20y/o car as the boots are completely gone

>
>Is it possible to "clean" the rotor and do the bedding process properly even though they've been in use already?

Yeah. The friction material may have bedded in inconsistently in which case it will even out over time as the rest of the rotor gets bedded in.

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I know but I'm curious as to how long it took you.

>Hyundai Sonata
Well, doesn't look like it needed to be screwed in.

The only other thing I can think of is if a piece of rust or dirt got inbetween the rotor and the rest of the assembly and made it off-center. Either that, or you just got defective rotors. My guess is that they're just warped because of excess heat.

>Ceramics such because of noise
and the fact that first few stops are not very good... you need to warm them up... problem is if you are on freeway for some time and try breaking to stop it will make a difference.

sounds like you put the brake pads on backwards
lol
nube

Yep I had mine cut a few times on my plow truck. Got called jew boy all the time sitting on the leath at the shop

>My guess is that they're just warped because of excess heat.
They new rotors bruh. did u read OP?

hey man, don't judge. it took me 4h to swap tires after lugs started to snap off on 3/4 wheels... fun times

No, he clearly just braked too hard a few times in a row and warped the rotor. Either that, or a stuck caliper but that's unlikely since he would've known it was fucked up when he was compressing them

OP: did any of the calipers seem extra difficult to compress?

i can warp your rotors in 15min from opening them

It took me a long ass time. Maybe 1.5-2 hours to both front rotors/brakes. Was my first time, so I feel okay with that lol.

I do feel like I could do it again much faster next time.

he shouldn't have even risked getting air in his brake line, he didn't replace the calipers.

op, the shuddering may not be from your brakes. i did the same job a while ago and it ended up being a combination of my tie rod ends and my balljoints. if it's only occasional you may be feeling it when your car isn't going straight and braking on a flat surface. check your steering components as well if the vibration feels localized to your wheel and front.

>
>It took me a long ass time. Maybe 1.5-2 hours to both front rotors/brakes. Was my first time, so I feel okay with that lol.
>I do feel like I could do it again much faster next time.

You didn't fuck up any worse than any of these shit heads. Don't sweat it.

I'm a tech. I dont work on cars I work on forklifts now. More money. But at a shop an auto tech won't make any money cutting rotors that's why they get shitty. The parts store by me cuts them for 10 a rotor.

I would start by jacking it up so that the wheel is off the ground in order to see if it spins freely. You may have to put it in neutral if it's the front wheels but make sure to chock the other wheels to stop it from moving. If the wheel doesn't spin, or barely spins, it could be either the caliper glide pins, which would have to be cleaned free of rust and lucubrated or a stuck caliper piston which you can try to push back in with a break tool or c-clamp. If it doesn't go back in or if it moves stiffer than the other calipers, you'll have to either rebuild it or get a new one.

Whatever you do, leave the surface of your pads and rotors alone, unless you're just cleaning them, and don't put a metal brush near them.

Yea I've ran into problems too before shit sucks.

The shuddering is occasional, and tbh I may be imagining the shuddering portion of it. It's less a violent shake, and more a grinding sound when it occurs at specific pressures. For sure it squeals though.

That's not bad for a first time. I want asking to judge you. If anything good job for learning on your own

Cheaper pads are metallic and last longer . Soft pads have smooth braking but cost more.

I am going to try this test when I take it back apart tomorrow. This is very helpful! Thank you :)

Really though, you've all been very helpful and I love you all.

Yeah, but he's using new brakes and could've overheated the rotor while trying to break them in.

Buy these 2 tools from Harbor Freight and measure the runout. That will tell you if its the rotor:
harborfreight.com/1-In-Travel-Machinists-Dial-Indicator-63521.html
harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html

See if its 1 rotor or more than 1. If its just 1, then you could just have a shitty caliper or one that's stuck. If its more than one, then it could be that you're braking too hard.

Max runout is ~.001". You need that dial indicator for plenty of shit in your car anyway.

Don't give up on car repair just because of one problem. EVERY mechanic you know has made a bunch of fuck-ups on their own cars as they learned how they work. While you're under your car, check the axles too to see if the boots are torn. If they are, get a re-manufactured axle off Ebay(~$30) and replace the old one and tighten it down hard. If the boot is torn, then its only a matter of time before you're stuck on the road with a spinning rod going nowhere.

What makes me a shit head for asking how long it took him.

this

harborfreight.com/1-In-Travel-Machinists-Dial-Indicator-63521.html
AND
harborfreight.com/Multi-Position-Magnetic-Base-with-Fine-Adjustment-63663.html

Accidentally gave you 2 links for the dial indicator.

>
>I am going to try this test when I take it back apart tomorrow. This is very helpful! Thank you :)
>Really though, you've all been very helpful and I love you all.

>>tighten it down hard
Over torquing of an axle nut can damage or cause premature failure of a wheel bearing. Food for thought.

> (You)
>What makes me a shit head for asking how long it took him.

I wasn't talking about you user.

You couldn't have made this thread at s better time. I'm going to replace my brake pads and rotors tomorrow and this thread has been extremely helpful to make sure I don't mess mine up.

Wtf is bedding. I never heard such thing . Only thing I usually do with the new rotors clean it with break cleaner. I think you got other problem. Did you install the clips back? And bleed it? What make and model of your car

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>Over torquing of an axle nut can damage or cause premature failure of a wheel bearing. Food for thought.
I meant the ~6 hex bolts(if its like an old Avalon) that hold most of the axle to the spline that's in the front differential. Its easier to take that off than to just pull the axle out and then have to risk having a leaky seal. I replaced an axle on my car once and didn't tighten down those hex bolts and the thing nearly came off while I was driving.

But yeah, as for the main nut on the axle, you want to make sure you don't over-tighten it.

OP here. I'm going to save the helpful parts of this thread for when I work on checking the brakes tomorrow. :) Thank you again. I really appreciate your time in helping me. I feel more confident in what to look for and what to expect now.

Right? I'm really grateful for the help!

I think its to remove the outer layer of whatever they put on them to keep them from rusting. Either some sort of lacquer or zinc or something.

Ok I was just asking OP how long it took him. I didnt wanna have to call you the n word on the internet. Kek

you could also call it seating the brake pads
its like breaking them in before actually using them to make normal stops

ITT: No one has heard of bedding new brakes.

I didnt understand at first. I always just pull the axle out. But to each their own.

Hope everything works out well. Also, while you have your car jacked up, test the wheels to make sure you don't have any wheel bearings going out. There's guides online and its basically involves grabbing the tire and seeing if it moves back and forth.

How loud are ceramic brakes supposed to be? As loud as a wear indicator?

you're the grease monkey... grease monkey.

What you're doing is easier but it can be a real pain in the ass if the seal is damaged in the process.

ITT: No one does that gay shit.
Remember that you should be able to find a Youtube video of someone doing it on whatever your car model. They are worth watching.

It refers to breaking in new rotors to ensure that the friction material of the pad is evenly distributed across the face of the rotor ensuring consistent friction as the brakes clamp down on the rotor as it spins. If a portion of the rotor has a lower level of friction than the rest a shudder will occur. For people who drive like grandmas it's not necessary.

At the top and bottom. But you have to look at what's moving. The movement of a wheel bearing could fool a novice into thinking ball joints or tie rod ends

youtube.com/watch?v=7zjHSFVangI

>How loud are ceramic brakes supposed to be? As loud as a wear indicator?

No, the pitch is higher and the amplitude is less.

Op- real talk here- did you re-install your shims properly? If they’re installed backwards or on the wrong sides they will squeal. Make sure your caliper slide pins are clean, greased, and move easily. Do not over-torque these bolts!

The rotors need time to properly break in, usually takes a hundred miles or so, you can speed this process up by doing a 30mph to 0mph short stop a few times in a row

Also how cheap were the pads? Inferior material chatters, especially cheap versions of ceramic pads.

There’s your problem, it’s a piece of shit Hyundai

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It not impossible bit I've never damaged an axle seal. I have had axles fight me to seat back in. I had a buddy fuck up a seal that I had to fix so I know what you mean. He fucked the seal up when he put the axle back in

brakes are a meme. just let the transmission slow you down

Yeah Illinois here and nobody does that here anymore either. Weird. I guess it’s a regional thing.

How hard would you guys say changing brakes on a car is? Is it easy to mess up?

>Philips head bolt holds on the rotor.
Fuck whatever gook designed this. They rust, strip, and have to be drilled or torched out sometimes.

What the fuck is going on in this thread? People actually seem to be.... like helping someone.. or something.

Well shit OP thanks for a fresh thread topic!

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Is this because all of Yea Forums works at jiffy lube?

You can't blame that guy. Nobody makes wide body kits for shitty tuners anymore

>What the fuck is going on in this thread? People actually seem to be.... like helping someone.. or something.
>Well shit OP thanks for a fresh thread topic!

I'm just here waiting for OP's tits....

To be fair a few comments did recommend oil be applied to the brakes.

Stick with asbestos pads. Ceramic is for faggots.

>How hard would you guys say changing brakes on a car is? Is it easy to mess up?

Pretty hard actually.

If all you're planning on doing is changing brakes and you have no interest in any other type of work, you're just wasting your time because brake work is rather cheap anyway. There is a possibility you may fuck something up and I would say it's harder than most people think, particularly if you don't have the right tools.

That said, it's a good opportunity to learn how to work on cars which you can then apply to the jobs that will save you money, but you have to ask yourself if it's worth it. Getting covered in grime and crawling around in tight spaces outside isn't for most people.

Shit you’re right. We forgot the cardinal rules!
NYPA
OP Tits or GTFO

>
>To be fair a few comments did recommend oil be applied to the brakes.

Yeah, but even fewer than would have on /o/ or /diy/.

Oh, Yea Forums, what have we become?

It's equivalent to performing brain surgery in the dark. Under water. With sharks nearby. And you've been dipped in seal blood.

>all of Yea Forums works
>works

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got it. taking it straight to jiffy lube. brb

>
>It's equivalent to performing brain surgery in the dark. Under water. With sharks nearby. And you've been dipped in seal blood.

Spoken like someone who's worked on a German car.

That’s Frankie. He likes the weather.

Also if you can change a set a brakes, you have the ability to do around 90% of the maintenance work on cars. Same shit, differen't bolts.

I would advise the following:

Start the car. Put it in Parking. Lower the handbrake. It will move and lock to the parking brake a bit. Now keep applying pressure to the brake fully depressing the pedal. Do it 10 times max pumping the brake.

Next turn off the car. Look at the brake master cylinder. If fluid is low (because you changed pads and pushed the pistons without keeping the master cylinder open). Either add fluid or inspect.

Next find a clear road. Do 5 runs of braking from 50mph to 10mph runs using 50-70% pressure.

DONT STOP! Just keep going never have brakes fully stopping the car. Now drive around for 10 minutes to cooldown your brakes. After they’re cold go and do another run but at 60mph to almost stopping the car.

Then keep driving for half hour on clear road with no stops.

*tip: you probably installed the rotor without cleaning it or wiping it with brake cleaner. Spraying brake cleaner and leaving to dry wouldn’t harm anything.

Now if the brakes started behaving fine. It’s 2 things:

1. You didn’t use copper paste which sticks the pads to the piston.
2. Probably bent or slightly wrapped your rotors during installation.

Either way rotors might need machining and handled with care.

/o/ would fucking immasculate... Er.. Effeminate him.

This user knows what's up.

looks good but
isn't this bedding the brakes? (what everyone in here says isnt needed??)

Enough with the valid comments.

TITS or BTFO!

bruh we rebuilt OPs engine already

>BTFO
that's not what that means user

>looks good but
>isn't this bedding the brakes? (what everyone in here says isnt needed??)

It's been mentioned a couple of times... and if it's needed depends on the driver. As most of Yea Forums is still driving mom or dad's car or are riding a bus and dreaming of owning a bicycle they would know nothing about it.

This thread makes me feel like i can rebuild a car now.

>DIY gone wrong. Local man's car explodes and bursts in to flames. More at 11.

What are the best brake pads for stop and go traffic in LA?

>This thread makes me feel like i can rebuild a car now.

Self confidence and reassurance is what Yea Forums is all about.
Fuck I hate the new direction Yea Forums has taken...

I still believe in you, user :)

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Those spics that sell oranges.

>What are the best brake pads for stop and go traffic in LA?

Just get some EBC Red Stuff pads. They're a good, all purpose pad and work well when you want to do some more spirited driving. Just a high grade semi metallic.

youtube.com/watch?v=BnSi8nI1188

How is this thread still going? The alien, amateur, self fisting thread died faster than this?

I dunno man. Is Yea Forums turning over a new leaf? I was planning suicide later but I have like hope and shit now

Oh, yeah! I saw your thread. Have you decided on a method? I'd go with the box full of starved rats myself... just so my family would know just how invested I was and how thoroughly they failed me.

OT, ceramic brake pads are shit for basic city driving.

Take apart and verify condition of parts
Replace as necessary
Do not wash
Do not clean unless you get grease or oil on the rotors
Take the vehicle out for a 5 mile slow drive and slowly progress from 10% braking force up to 70% braking force to burn them in
Do not slam them
Do not do 70% on the first run. Gradually work you way up in pressure always rolling at around 20-30mph.
I've done hundreds of brake changes. Never had an issue.

>and thought I did everything right after watching a ton of videos.
>None of the videos or instructions fucking mentioned having to “bed” the brakes after installing them and I think that’s fucked me up.
>I’m finding that my brakes squeal quite loudly at ~75% pedal pressure and I’m noticing minor bits of vibration occasionally when braking. I haven’t taken them apart again to verify, but I assume it’s because I didn’t bed them after learning about bedding.
brakes will vibrated under load if you didn't use a torque wrench to tighten down the wheels. Rotors are warped.

Yeah nah mate thats fuckin normal. Don't even worry about it cunt